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Our last contest consisted of selecting the order of things to
check to troubleshoot an overheating engine with a "raw
water" cooling system. A few of our viewers asked me to
explain just what a raw water system was and how it worked.
Raw water refers
to the water that the boat is floating in. It makes no
difference whether it is salt or fresh, both are used to cool
the engine. The process starts by drawing water into the
engine through a seacock fitting and pumping it through the
engine's water jacket and ports by way of a mechanical water
pump.
In a raw water
system the water is drawn up through the seacock by the water
pump. The water flows through the engine and directly out the
exhaust. This cooler water absorbs heat from the engine to
help keep it cool.
Most newer marine
engines use an enclosed cooling system. This means that there
is a small tank on the top of the engine that uses a
combination of fresh water and coolant. This fresh water is
circulated through the engine and through a heat exchanger.
The fresh water, in this system, absorbs the heat of the
engine. Raw water is still drawn up through the seacock but
only flows through the heat exchanger jacket. This cooler raw
water absorbs the heat from the fresh water through the heat
exchanger jacket and is then pumped out the exhaust.
The advantages of
the enclosed system over the raw water system are extreme,
especially if you are operating in salt water. Salt water
tends to build up a corrosive scale when the engine operates
above 140°. In the raw water system this scale is building up
inside the engine's water jacket and ports. When the scaling
builds to the point that water flow is restricted the engine
starts to overheat. At this point you are probably looking at
replacing the engine.
In the enclosed
system, the water that flows through the engine's water jacket
and ports is the fresh water and coolant. The only part the
raw water flows through is the heat exchanger. The same
scaling occurs however. When water flow is restricted and the
engine begins to overheat you may be able to "acid
boil" the scale out of the heat exchanger and continue to
use it. The worse case is that you would have to replace the
heat exchanger. This would be much less expensive than
replacing the engine.
Other components
of the cooling system, whether it be raw water or enclosed,
are the seacock, sea strainer, hoses and clamps, belts and
water pump impeller.
The seacock is a
through-hull device that allows water to enter the hull from
the outside. This device has a handle that allows you to shut
off the water flow if you have a problem such as a loose hose
clamp or cracked hose. You should test the seacock shut-offs
monthly to make sure they are operable. As a backup safety
measure you should have a soft, tapered, wooden plug (called a
bung) of the size of the seacock tied to the seacock. In case
a hose parts and you can't operate the shut-off you can put
the bung in the seacock to stop the water flow.
The next inline
part of the engine cooling system is the sea strainer. This is
a device through which the raw water flows and is designed to
filter out debris, sand, leaves, etc. before it gets to the
engine. This device works much like a swimming pool skimmer.
There are several kinds of strainers but all have a removable
filter or screen which should be checked and cleaned or
replaced on a regular basis.
Hoses, clamps and
belts are vital to the cooling system and should also be
checked periodically. Every time you check the oil, which
should be done before each start-up, you should visually
inspect hoses, clamps and belts for wear. All hoses that are
below the waterline should be double clamped. This will help
prevent water from entering the bilge should one of the clamps
fail. If you find a corroded clamp, a pinched or cracked hose
or belt, they should be replaced immediately. Be sure to
replace the hoses with the same size diameter, length and
temperature requirements that the manufacturer suggests.
The raw water
pump, which is driven by a belt on the engine, contains an
impeller which makes the pump operate. It is usually fairly
easy to access the impeller to inspect or replace it.
In the enclosed
system, a commercial coolant (antifreeze) should be added.
This will prevent the fresh water from freezing and damaging
the engine in cold climates and also will help prevent
corrosion build-up in the fresh water system. Normally you
would use the coolant and fresh water in 50/50 mixture. In
colder climates you may want to increase the coolant
percentage.
In summary, the
direct, raw water system circulates water through the engine
water jacket which flows through the block, head, manifold,
etc. This water absorbs the heat from the engine and is
exhausted overboard.
The enclosed
system circulates fresh water and coolant through the engine
water jacket and through a heat exchanger. This fresh water
absorbs the heat of the engine. The raw water is also pumped
through the heat exchanger where it absorbs some of the heat
of the fresh water and is again exhausted overboard.
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