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Swimming, paddling and snorkeling from the boat are some of the most frequently enjoyed summer family activities. But when the kids or the dog climb back aboard, they can track a lot of sand, grime and salt water on deck and below. The ability to rinse off after an afternoon of water fun with a transom-mounted shower is both refreshing and practical. Depending upon your needs, your shower can be plumbed to use saltwater, freshwater or both. Ideally, it can also provide hot water if your boat has a water heater installed.
Boats without hot water heaters also have the option of installing a transom shower, using heat generated inside the cooling system of your engine. Heater Craft makes several showers of this type that use heat exchangers – the Aquatik Shower Systems. If your boat has either a raw-water or closed-cooled engine, but no water heater, we can Special Order any of the six Aquatik systems. This article will outline the steps for installing a transom shower for boats with hot and cold water systems.
Most transom showers come with a recessed enclosure. In addition to the enclosure, most transom-shower systems include a nozzle with a length of retractable hose, plus valves for hot and cold water. These fixtures are designed to be plumbed into your boat’s existing pressure water system.
Installing your transom shower is a relatively simple project. The essentials involve determining the best location, cutting a hole, installing and sealing the shower enclosure, and completing the plumbing connections. You will need a few basic tools: a tape measure and pencil, cordless drill, jigsaw or keyhole saw, utility knife, screwdrivers, channel lock pliers or wrench set. You also will need some 1/2" hose of the right length for hot and cold water lines, along with 6 or 8 stainless hose clamps, two barbed hose tees, and some marine-grade silicone sealant. Shields Series 162 reinforced PVC tubing is a good choice for both hot and cold water connections, or you can use the Quick Connect plumbing fittings and hose made by Whale or Sea Tech, if your boat is so equipped. Female NPT pipe-to-hose fittings or other adapters may also be needed, depending on the shower unit and plumbing you decide to purchase.
The first steps of the project involve finding the best location to mount the enclosure. A flat surface in the transom, cockpit, or near the swim platform is ideal. Keep in mind that you’ll need enough space behind the mounting surface for the depth of the enclosure, as well as for the shower hose to retract. Do not locate the shower above electrical equipment or other items that might be damaged by a small trickle of water along the hose, which may occur when the shower is in use. Outside, there should be space for the hinged cover (if the shower has one) to swing all the way open. Be sure that the shower hose will reach to a convenient height and distance. Use a 6' length of line to check the reach from your possible locations. Double-check all your measurements, both inside and outside the transom, before you start cutting or drilling holes.
Locate the nearest hot and cold water system pipes, and plan the route aft to the shower unit using the shortest, straightest runs possible. Under the galley sink is often the best place to tee into the system, but there may be a more straightforward location on your boat, since every boat is different. Turn off the water pressure pump at the distribution panel, cut into the hoses and install the hose tees with stainless hose clamps. Use cable ties and mounts or stainless steel cushion clamps to secure the hoses every foot or so along their run.
There may be a template included with your shower unit, which you can use to make the hole in the transom. If not, you can make one yourself by tracing the enclosure’s outline and noting the position of the mounting screw holes. Tape the template in place and cut your hole. Be sure to seal the raw edges of the cut with several coats of epoxy resin to ensure that water doesn’t penetrate the core material. Once the epoxy has cured, dry-fit the enclosure and drill pilot holes for the mounting screws.
Apply silicone caulk to the surface of the enclosure that will contact the hull. Install your new shower in the opening, and fasten it in place. Wait until the sealant is tack-free, which should take a couple of hours or less. Then remove each screw individually and give the threads a liberal coat of sealant before reinserting and tightening them down.
The shower units require some simple mechanical assembly, most of which involves connecting the showerhead, hose and assorted washers and hardware to the enclosure, with included instructions. Connect the water hoses and turn on the water pressure pump to test all the connections for leaks. You can then go for a swim, dive, ski or paddle, and enjoy a clean fresh water rinse afterward using your new transom shower.
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