You don’t have to live next door to Popeye to learn how to splice ropes like an old salt. Just use your computer to visit the New England Ropes website at neropes.com/splice/ for step-by-step instructions on how to splice both stranded lines and braided lines. Splices retain more of the rope’s strength than knots, and are much preferred for attaching various kinds of hardware to a line and for joining two lines together. You’ll discover that, with a little time and a little patience, you can turn out professional quality splices yourself. (The New England Ropes site also has animated instructions on tying useful and popular knots.)

The buoyancy tube of your inflatable boat is made of fabric using plastomer PVC or neoprene hypalon rubber. Inflatable boat maintenance is easy but essential. Clean it every month (if used extensively) or seasonally before storing for the winter.

Never use strong detergents (acid, trichloroethylene, mineral spirits), high-pressure cleaning equipment or silicone-based products to clean your inflatable boat.

• Inflate the buoyancy tube
• Open the self-bailer ad wash the boat with a hose to remove sand and other particles
• Remove the floor or floorboards where applicable
• Clean all grime, stains, etc (use products from your dealer if required)
• Check all inflatable sections for leaks with foamy soap and water
• Rinse with fresh water and dry thoroughly

• Check that the valves and gaskets are clean and not damaged
• Check that the self-bailer is not clogged

There is no hard and fast rule for choosing the right overall paddle length, because it is partly a matter of personal preference and paddling style.

• General touring paddles are roughly 7' to 8' long (210 to 240cm)
• Rough guideline for paddler height: under 5' 4" use a 215-220cm paddle; 5' 4" to 6' 220-230cm; and over 6' 230-250cm
  
• The beamier the kayak, the longer the paddle: Paddlers in big folding double or inflatable kayaks often like long paddles close to 250cm. Whitewater boaters prefer shorter paddles (205cm) for strength, more vertical paddling style, maneuverability and quickness.
• Longer paddles apply more leverage to each stroke but require more effort. Shorter paddles require less leverage but allow a rapid cadence and smooth acceleration. Most kayak racers use paddles of 220cm or less with a high-cadence, vertical stroke that also works well for recreational paddlers in more demanding conditions.

If your oars are too long or hard to pull, they may not clear the water on the backstroke. Oars that are too short won’t dig into the water or allow the rower adequate leverage. Narrow-beam boats and low-freeboard boats require shorter oars.

BASIC RULE FOR SIZING:
1/2 beam (distance between oarlocks) x 3 + 6" = oar length

BEAM AT OARLOCKS
3'4" 3'8" 4' 4'4" 4'8" 5'

RECOMMENDED OAR LENGTH
5 1/2' 6' 6 1/2' 7' 7 1/2' 8'
Low freeboard boats may use shorter oars.

How big does the tank need to be?
A general rule is that a person will consume 1lb. of propane per week for cooking meals. 10lb. of propane will operate an average stove burner for 43 hours. That translates into three meals a day for eight people for eight days or two people for about 40-50 days. Propane water heaters use about 0.5 pounds per hour of operation. Tanks are available in either rust free aluminum or powder-coated steel. The American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) is the world's most highly respected boating industry technical organization, and sets voluntary standards for boat construction and safety in important areas like ventilation, electricity and plumbing. While not mandatory, we recommend that you follow ABYC guidelines so your installations are safe and because the systems should work better. The initials ABYC refers to either the group itself, or the standards that the group establishes.

• Propane Lockers: isolated, vapor-tight and above the waterline with ventilation directly overboard
• Tanks: made of corrosion-resistant materials with overfill protection devices (OPDs)
• Pressure Gauges: installed in-line to detect system leaks
• Solenoid Valves: required for remote shut-off if the tank valve is not within reach of the appliance
• Supply Hoses: corrosion-resistant flexible tubing must provide a continuous connection to the appliance
• Dedicated Vent: located at the bottom of the locker with a minimum 1/2" dia.
• Warning Sign: with safety instructions located in the immediate vicinity of the cylinder.

Striking clocks use the traditional ship’s bells. The following is reprinted from Chapman’s standard reference book, Piloting, Seamanship and Small Boat Handling: Ship’s bell time originated in sailing ship days, when the crew of a vessel was divided into Port and Starboard Watches, each on duty four hours, then off four hours. One stroke of the ship’s bell indicates the first half hour of the watch. Then an additional bell is struck for each succeeding half hour. Thus eight bells indicates the end of a four-hour watch. When the time calls for two or more strokes, they are sounded in groups of two.

The first five watches are as follows: First Watch, 8PM to Midnight; Middle Watch, Midnight to 4AM; Morning Watch, 4AM to 8AM; Forenoon Watch, 8AM to Noon and Afternoon Watch, Noon to 4PM. The next four hours are divided into two Dog Watches the first Dog Watch, 4PM to 6PM and the Second Dog Watch, 6PM to 8PM. By means of the Dog Watches, the watches can be changed every day, so that each watch gets a turn of eight hours rest at night. Otherwise each member of the crew would be on duty the same hours every day.

Exterior: Clean the exterior after each use with soapy water and a soft cloth or sponge. Keep the barbecue covered between uses.

Interior: Remove heavy residue from the grill and empty the grease tray between uses. Completely disassemble and clean the barbecue at least once per year, depending on use, and always prior to long-term storage.

Grates: Coat the grates with vegetable oil before use to prevent food from sticking. Clean with a brass wire brush while the grill is warm. Use Easy Off Oven and Grill Cleaner for burnt-on residue, disassemble and wash parts after cleaning. Wash with soapy water before long-term storage.

Ceramic electrode: Keep the electrode, located beside the burner, free of grease and debris. Be careful not to damage the ceramic insulation or bend the wire.

Control valve: Don't attempt to adjust or disassemble. Remove any obstructing debris from the orifice with a pin or needle.
Do not clean the barbecue with steel wool or abrasive cleaners.

Weather Seal and hatch tape is made of a durable sponge rubber compound specifically designed for the marine environment. This material offers excellent resistance to water absorption, sunlight and extreme temperature (between -20 to +150 deg. F.). For best performance, the maximum compression recommended is 25% of the actual size.

• Clean area of all contaminants
• Peel off the release liner carefully. Make sure it does not remove the adhesive with it.
• Avoid stretching during installation
• Recommended application temp. is between 60° F & 100° F
• Press down firmly to assure a strong bond
• To clean, use a mild solution of soap and water with Armor-All®, periodically to keep pliable

Our tests have shown that even the top-rated (IPX-7/JIS-7 or better) handheld VHFs can develop leaks that can compromise their reliability. We highly recommend the use of a waterproof bag, like those we sell on page 15, to ensure that your radio will operate when you need it to. While it may be a bit cumbersome to operate at first, we find that using the radio inside the bag soon becomes second nature. And the peace of mind that comes from knowing your radio’s circuits are dry and functional is well worth the money.

WHAM Mics are wireless!
These unique wireless microphones sometimes escape notice, but there is really nothing else quite like them. Adding to the confusion is the fact that there are two generations of Uniden's WHAM mics that fit different radios and have different capabilities.

WHAMx4
These are the premium models that work with Uniden's UM-Series radios on the opposite page. They float. They're submersible. You can talk between one WHAMx4 and another up to half a mile apart. Best of all, they allow you to control all the functions of their "base station" radios up to a quarter mile away, including the Digital Selective Calling distress features. WHAMx4 provides you with a 25W umbrella transceiver linked to your take-me-with-you intercom unit, boosting your range far beyond what you'd get from a 5W handheld VHF.

WHAM
Simpler and more affordable, the original WHAM mics are compatible with Uniden's Oceanus and Polaris, and West Marine's VHF 500 and VHF600 radios. These single-station wireless units are great for the flying bridge or the stateroom, and also control all radio functions including DSC. Their range allows short-range communication only. Use them from anywhere onboard the boat. Customer reviews are very positive:

SailMail is a simple and affordable low-bandwidth way to send and receive e-mail worldwide. A nonprofit group of yacht owners operate coastal stations in North, Central and South America, Europe, Africa, the Pacific and Australia. An annual membership fee of around $250 covers the costs of the network. You need two common pieces of cruising electronics, a SSB radio and a laptop computer. You will also have to buy one other component to send and receive e-mail, a Pactor HF-radio modem, which costs $900 to $1250. The system’s capacity is limited, transmission speed is ultra slow, but SailMail is popular with long-distance cruisers who are on a budget. Some cruisers use SailMail for their primary economy e-mail service, and carry an Iridium phone as an emergency backup for critical communications, or for use when radio signal propagation is poor. Some SailMail members use SailMail’s AirMail software to access their e-mail via their satellite phone, because they like its efficient communications protocol, compression, and filtering to reduce their satellite time and cost. They carry a Pactor modem for use with their SSB radio as a backup to their satellite system. For more info visit www.sailmail.com.

Electrical system monitors have three functions:

• Voltmeters are used to show the approximate state of charge of batteries, and to show when charging sources are operating. They also allow boaters to adjust regulators, like those connected to a solar panel, so they charge batteries at the correct voltage. To be useful, voltmeters should be able to measure tenths of a volt.
  
  
• Ammeters are used to show how much current is flowing, measured in amps. A windlass might draw 150A, while a GPS might draw 0.05A, so ammeters have to operate over a wide range of values. They can also show how rapidly your batteries are being discharged and how much current your alternator is generating. There are three logical places for ammeters on boats.
  
• While many boats will have one or two, there is a good argument for each of the following meters: The common negative wire leading to the house bank will measure the net amount of current going into or out of the battery. This meter will normally be part of an electrical system monitor. The wire that feeds the distribution panel will show you how much energy your DC loads are using. Other loads, which do not run “through” this wire, will not be shown. Distribution panels will frequently include an analog meter, which is certainly accurate enough for measuring current. The alternator output wire will show you how much your alternator is putting out. This meter is commonly part of the engine panel in the cockpit.
  
  
• Amp-hour meters display how much energy has been removed from your boat’s batteries. They start at 0Ah, count “down” as energy is removed (-45Ah) and count “up” as batteries are charged. One amp-hour means a circuit carries one amp of current for one hour. A battery that can store 85Ah can run a 4.25A load for 20 hours.

Design Rule: If you know the load that is placed on an inverter in AC watts, you can divide by 10 to find the DC load in amps. If an inverter is going to run a 500-watt load, it will draw around 50A DC. The math behind this rule is as follows: 500-watts AC ÷ 85% efficiency ÷12.5V = 47A DC. Keep two things in mind: 500W is not very much power (think about a small cabin heater that draws 1500W or a large hair dryer that draws 1000W); and 50A is a heck of a lot of DC current use. Not many DC loads on boats 40' and under would draw 50A or more for more than a few minutes. Therefore, an inverter frequently becomes the largest DC load on most boats, and may require substantial changes in the battery capacity and wiring of the boat in which it is installed.

Design Rule: To be effective, we recommend inverters have access to a battery bank that is 20% as large in amp-hours as the inverter size in watts. This means a Xantrex Pro 1000 inverter should be supported by at least 200 Ah of battery capacity. The rationale behind this rule is that inverters use about 100 Ah of electricity for every 1,000-watt-hours of use. So if a Pro 1000 were used at its maximum capacity for an hour, it would consume 100 Ah. This would discharge a 200 amp-hour battery by 50% if it started out fully charged. This is a recommended minimum: as usual, more battery capacity is better.

What’s a GFCI? It stands for Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (also commonly referred to as a GFI), and it protects people from electrocution in an interesting way. In normal circuits where there is no current leakage, there is exactly as much electricity passing through the black (hot) AC conductor as the neutral (white) conductor (along the theory that what goes in, must come out). That means that the wires are moving all the electricity, and your body is not getting shocked from current leakage due to a short circuit, which could be painful or fatal.

If a GFCI senses that even a tiny bit of current imbalance exists (around 5 milliamps, or 0.005A) between the hot and neutral wires, it breaks the circuit to protect someone who might get electrocuted. This is similar to what a circuit breaker does, but a GFCI works at extremely tiny amounts of current leakage unlike a circuit breaker, which might require 20 (fatal) amps.

The ABYC Standards and Recommended Practices for Small Craft has a requirement that wires be supported every 18" along their path. This is to prevent repeated flexing, due to the boat’s motion through the water, or the engine’s vibration. Wire ties and clamps are approved methods of securing wires.

Blue Sea Systems’ DC Circuit Wizard performs calculations and recommends appropriate circuit protection options fuse or circuit breaker and wire size for just about all DC applications. http://beta.circuitwizard.bluesea.com

Design Rule: A change in six gauge numbers is a four times increase in wire size. When the wire size goes down two numbers (from 14 to 12), the amount of copper in the wire goes up by 59%.

Does the whole topic of installing and operating a single sideband radio confuse you? Well, you are not alone. Fortunately, there is a great resource as near as your computer. Marine radio expert Gordon West takes the mystery out of antenna tuners, grounding foil, backstay insulators and everything else about your Icom SSB radio. Go to http://www.icomamerica.com/marine/ssb_book.asp Here are a couple examples of Gordon West’s advice:

• If you run the power cable to your battery system, choose a battery that is less apt to fail in an emergency. If you have a separate battery that is located above the water line, choose it in case of flooding. Just as soon as seawater covers your batteries, you are off the air—just when you wish you were on.
  
  
• FCC rules require the active antenna tuner to be located as far away from people as possible. In other words, don't mount the tuner in an area where someone could actually touch the high voltage output single wire terminal!

Even the most sophisticated VHF radio cannot function without an excellent connection to the antenna. And solid connections require that the connectors be correctly installed. Soldered connectors require a deft professionsal’s touch to strip the insulation without nicking the cable’s sheathing and apply the solder correctly. Centerpin connectors enable even non-professionals to install coax fittings without solder but with professional results. Remember that every wiring connection should be sealed with adhesive-lined heat-shrink tubing to protect the joint from moisture.

Don Casey makes a great case for a two-pump system in his excellent book, This Old Boat. If you want a bilge pump large enough to dewater your boat in a real emergency, it will not do a great job of keeping the bilge dry under everyday conditions. Its 1 1/8"-1 1/2" discharge hose will drain a bunch of water back into the bilge when the pump cycles off. So he advises a small automatic pump (400gph) mounted in the sump to deal with leakage from the prop shaft and rainwater, and a high capacity pump (3500gph) mounted higher for emergencies. The discharge hose for the small pump is only 1/2", so the bilge stays dryer. The large pump stays high and dry, extending its lifespan indefinitely. It can be wired to either a float switch or a manual switch, as Casey recommends.

3500gph (or bigger) pump connected to manual switch.
400gph (or smaller) pump with integral float switch, connected directly to battery.

• Keep the pump and its strainer free of dirt and debris.
• Keep discharge hose length as short as possible. Long hoses have more resistance, which reduces pump performance. Use smooth bore hose for the same reason.
• Install hose with gradual bend radius because sudden and tight turns also impact capacity by restricting the flow to and from the pump.
• Use a vented loop if the thru-hull can be submerged, especially on sailboats where heel might immerse the fitting that is well above water line when the vessel floats on even keel.
• Use waterproof butt connectors for bilge wiring. Ancor waterproof butt connectors with adhesive-lined tubing are worth the expense.

• USEFUL BILGE PUMP KNOWLEDGE
  Open flow refers to the condition of zero head pressure, where the pump is not lifting water and has no discharge tubing connected. This is the unrealistic condition under which the capacities of electric bilge pumps are measured.
  Increase the pump's efficiency by keeping head height to a minimum. Water is heavy, and it takes a lot of energy to lift it several feet in the air and dump it over the side. Choose intake and discharge hoses with large diameters. Any pump can move more water with a given amount of effort when using larger diameter hose.
  Wiring: Pumps are rated in gallons per minute (GPM) or gallons per hour (GPH) with no discharge head at 13.6 volts DC, which is the voltage you might expect with the engine running, rather than the more realistic condition of 12.0 volts. Pump performance will deteriorate dramatically with declining voltage. It is very important to wire the pump with appropriately sized wire (based upon the pump’s current draw) to minimize voltage drop and maximize performance.
  Follow manufacturer's advice for wire size to prevent voltage drop, especially on pumps that draw 10, 15 amps or more. Use the wire charts in the electrical section of the Annual Catalog and size your wiring using the 3% voltage drop specifications.

We really like inflatable vests because they’ so comfortable that they eliminate excuses for not wearing them. However, they have to work reliably and that requires a bit of owner-maintenance. We recommend that the first thing you do with a new vest–before ever taking it aboard–is to activate the inflation mechanism and inspect the bladder for leaks. Then repack and rearm the vest with a new CO2 cylinder. It’s very simple to do and if you learn how as soon as you get your vest, you won’t put it off when it’s time for annual maintenance.

It is the nature of emergencies that they don’t allow much time to take action. In an abandon ship situation, you don’t want to have to dig into lockers or under berths to find essential survival gear. Having a dedicated bag pre-packed with dedicated survival equipment stowed where it’s readily accessible in an emergency is good seamanship. We highly recommend that the survival bag have its own radio, flares and other signaling equipment instead of hoping you can throw the ship’s gear into the bag in an emergency.

ISAF (International Sailing Federation) is the world's governing body for the sport of sailing. ISAF promotes, develops, interprets and amends rules and regulations for sailboat racing. Be sure your tethers meet ISAF Offshore Special Regulation 5.02 requiring personal safety harnesses and tethers that comply with EN 1095 (ISO12401) or equivalent standards while racing. ISAF Offshore Special Regulations govern offshore racing for monohulls and multihulls, structural features, yacht equipment, personal equipment and training. Find out more at www.sailing.org.

Preventive maintenance is not just a prudent boating practice, but in the case of lifeline systems it could be a lifesaver.

Here are a few tips to review for your annual lifeline check-up:

• Tape all opening fittings (pelican hooks) so that they cannot open accidentally. Some hooks can accept cotter pins to keep the bills from opening up.
  
  
• Make sure that adjustable fittings are secured by their lock nuts. If secured with split rings, make sure the rings are intact and taped off with rigging tape.
  
  
• Inspect all swages to make sure there is no fatigue, cracking or corrosion damage at the wire.
  
  
• Check stanchion bases for cracks, damage and movement.
  
  
• Insure that there is good alignment between the wire and the load, and use a toggle jaw or other universal fitting to correct misalignment.

30-micron filter elements are used as a primary filter when the secondary filter is left in place on the engine. There has to be a secondary filter! 10-micron filter elements are used either as a primary or secondary filter, depending on whether 10 micron filtration meets the engine manufacturer’s recommendations. When used as the only engine filter, there is no reason not to leave the existing engine filter in place. 2-micron filters can be used as the only filters in the system. Since they remove almost every trace of water and dirt, they will need to be replaced more often than filters that allow more dirt to get through.

Accurate fuel gauges are essential to safe cruising because they allow you to monitor fuel levels and fuel consumption. As a rule, boaters should only use 1/3 tank on their way to a destination, saving 1/3 tank for the return trip and keeping 1/3 tank available as emergency reserve. Remember: 1/3 Out, 1/3 Back, and 1/3 Reserve.

Selecting a quality compass is only half the job. After all, it is a precision instrument that needs to be installed properly to be effective and accurate.
Here are some basic pointers:

• Choose the most visible and comfortable location for the helmsman.
  
  
• The compass must be aligned with the fore and aft axis of the boat.
  
  
• Route electrical wires away from the compass. Do not mount near instruments containing magnets or near the engine.
  
• Twist night light wires around one another to cancel out their magnetic field.
  
  
• Check for deviation caused by magnetic objects. Deviation is the error caused by iron and steel on a boat (hardware and fittings) that causes the compass to point away from magnetic north. Compasses need to be “swung” to determine the amount of deviation, and corrector magnets, which lie below the compass, can be adjusted by hand to eliminate deviation. However, compass correcting is complicated, and generally requires an expert (a so-called compass adjuster) to do it correctly. Beware: corrector magnets cannot eliminate changing electromagnetic sources, such as electrical wiring and electronics.

Spring weather can be unpredictable, and haulout schedules in the yard are crowded. Next fall, when you haul out for the winter, paint the hull bottom so you’ll be ready to launch in the spring, whatever the weather. Note that this only applies if you use a multi-season ablative type paint.

How long are you supposed to “twist and shout” when a manufacturer of a can of spray paint instructs you to “shake” it? What the paint company really means is that you should vigorously agitate the can for nearly two minutes (not just a few seconds) and then shake the can occasionally during use.

To restore pitted aluminum hardware or rails, knock the corrosion off with a razor blade and rub out the surface vigorously with rubbing compound and bronze wool. Apply a metal wax like Interlux Premium Teflon Marine Wax (Model 6862478). Finish the job with Interlux Teflon Wax Sealer (Model 6862486) for a durable finish that will last twice as long.

Unlike metal-blade scrapers, this ScrapeRite plastic scraper (Model 8684565) works on varnished wood, gelcoat and other finished surfaces without causing scratches. Removes paint, adhesive or cured sealant, and best results are achieved by applying solvent or water and using medium pressure. Scrape away without fear of cutting your fingers or scratching your work.

• Lifting Capacity – Choose a jack with capacity of at least 20% of the loaded boat/trailer weight.
  
  
• Lift – Maximum height slightly higher than the trailer hitch ball. Measure before you buy! Be sure the travel range (max. down to max. elevation) is adequate
  
  
• Wheel size – an 8" wheel or dual 6" wheels for trailers with heavy tongue weight or for rolling on unpaved surfaces
• Finish – Powdercoating is sprayed-on paint coating over steel. OK economy light duty freshwater choice. “Zamac” electroplated zinc is more durable than powdercoating for general freshwater use. Will corrode quickly with the
  introduction of salt water. “Sharkskin” galvanizing is a self-healing zinc-coated finish that is four times as durable as powdercoating, twice as durable as zinc plating. Excellent choice for salt water. Anodized aluminum (used in inner and outer tubes of the Fulton F2 jack) may be the most corrosion-resistant finish yet.
  
  
• Swing-Away pivoting jacks require less time raising and lowering
  
  
• Tongue size – jacks typically fit trailers with up to 3"W x 5"H tongue size. Use shims to make smaller sizes fit.
  

• Trailer tire jack
• Jackstand
• Lug wrench
• Spare tire(s)
• 12V air compressor
• Parts and tools to troubleshoot bearings (or a replacement hub assembly)
• Spare bearing protector
• Grease gun
• Brake pads and brake fluid
• Trailer light bulbs
• Extra tiedown straps

• Tool kit
• Jumper cables
• Extra fuses
• Engine coolant
• Oil
• Wheel chocks
• Highway flares
• Flashlight and spare batteries
• Waterless hand cleaner and rags