|
Introduction
While many new windlasses are sold complete with switching gear and
circuit protection, we frequently get questions about installing new
windlasses, as well as proper wiring and additional components.
Three Installation Questions
Proper windlass installation depends on three factors. First,
determine whether you have a series-wound or permanent-magnet motor
in your windlass. Permanent-magnet motors have two wire terminals on
the motor. You change direction on the motor by reversing the
polarity on the terminals. Series-wound motors have three terminals
on the motor-two positive and one negative. Which direction the
motor runs depends on which positive terminal is energized. The
motor-type dictates which type of switching mechanism can be used to
operate the windlass.
Second, determine whether you want single-direction (up-only) or
dual-direction (up/down) operation. Many windlasses give you no
choice-they are power-up/power-down by design. Others have a manual
clutch that allows you to control the down direction, while some
simply have free-fall. Since most boaters prefer the convenience of
power-up/power-down operation, single-direction windlasses are
becoming less common.
Finally, determine whether or not you want to be able to operate
the windlass from a remote location. Sailors commonly weigh anchor
from the bow, but on many powerboats it may be inconvenient to
operate the windlass from the bow. On any boat it may be unsafe to
stand on the deck in rough weather. Deck-mounted foot switches,
located near the windlass, are used if remote operation is not
desired. Panel switches at the helm are popular on powerboats, and
hand remotes can be used on sail or powerboats when remote operation
is desired.
Electrical Components
At the very least, every electric windlass circuit must have some
sort of appropriately-sized circuit protection, either a fuse or a
circuit breaker, as close as possible to the battery bank. The fuse
or circuit breaker must be sized to handle the expected operating
load, yet protect the wiring from a very high current draw and/or a
short circuit. Remember that circuit protection will not protect the
motor from sustained high load usage, which can cause heat build-up
in the motor without tripping a breaker or blowing a fuse.
Windlasses are designed to operate for short periods of time only.
Switches turn the circuit on or off, and differ in their
current-carrying ability and their style. Current-carrying switches,
like a foot switch or toggle switch, must handle the full current of
the windlass. Non-current-carrying switches, like a panel switch or
a hand-remote, turn a solenoid on or off, and must simply handle the
solenoid current. A solenoid is an electric relay switch that opens
or closes a main circuit when activated by a remote switch. Because
windlasses draw large amounts of current, a solenoid allows the
circuit to be "energized" from a remote location, without
having to pass full current through the remote switch. A
dual-direction switch box is made up of two solenoids and special
switching gear capable of directing the current to make the windlass
go up or down.
Installation Options
Because we don't have the space to draw wiring diagrams for every
conceivable set-up, we'll simply list the basic options. Many
variations exist, depending on the configuration of the boat. Use
our guidelines to determine what components you'll need, then
consult the windlass manufacturer or a marine electrician to
determine the specifics of your installation.
For a permanent-magnet motor, there are three basic installation
options. For up-only operation, use a foot switch. Remote operation,
while possible, is not usually used in this situation. For up/down
operation, use a double-pole/double-throw switch capable of handling
full current. For up/down remote operation, use a dual-direction
switch box designed for permanent-magnet motors plus remote
switches, either foot switches, a panel switch, a hand remote, or a
combination.
Series-wound motors also have three basic options. For up-only
operation, use a foot switch capable of handling full current. For
up/down operation from the windlass location, use two foot
switches-one for up and one for down. For up/down remote operation,
use a dual-direction switch box designed for series-wound motors in
conjunction with any combination of foot switches, a panel switch,
or a hand remote.
Wire Sizing
Because windlass current draw can be 300 amps or greater at
near-stalling load, wiring must be appropriately sized to avoid
excessive voltage drop, overheating, or failure. Any way you slice
it, windlasses require large diameter cables. Even small windlasses
will require 2 ga. or 1 ga. cables, and most larger windlasses will
require 2/0 or 4/0 ga. The actual diameter is based upon the
distance of the cable run and the maximum load. Use your windlass'
owner's manual or our wire-sizing guide (in the Electrical section)
to determine the right size for your installation. Remember to
include the cost of large diameter cables in the overall cost of the
installation.
Power Considerations
Though some experts may disagree, we believe that the best way to
power a windlass is from the existing house battery bank, rather
than from a separate battery in the bow. Not only does a dedicated
battery add to the already appreciable weight of the windlass,
anchor and rode, it presents charging and maintenance difficulties.
The weight and cost savings of using short cables between the
battery and the windlass, instead of long ones from the windlass to
the house battery bank (which is presumably far away), is offset by
the weight and cost of cables necessary to charge a bow battery.
Charging cables must be sized to handle any potential charging load.
This is liable to be less than the maximum windlass draw, but could
still be 50-100 amps, so the cable size would be almost as large as
those required to power the windlass from the house bank. In
addition, charging a battery over a long distance can involve large
amounts of current flow for an extended period of time (assuming a
heavily discharged battery), which in turn could lead to a voltage
drop, heat build-up, and/or a large electromagnetic field. In
contrast, a windlass draws current in short bursts, so the cables
supplying it will not be under continuous use.
|
