You probably heard that “no use is abuse” when it comes to boats. The truth is that only regular use will uncover potential problems in their early stages so preventive maintenance/repair/replacement can be done with relatively little effort and at low cost. Another good excuse to apply some TLC to your vessel is the winter haulout. Beat the crowds in spring and do some work before you close the cover (or the barn door) for a few months. This winterizing checklist was inspired by Nigel Calder’s invaluable Boatowner’s Mechanical and Electrical Manual (Model 7103625) and by the suggestions of the folks at Philbrook’s Boatyard in Sidney, BC, on Vancouver Island.
Regular Care
For boats that are kept in the water we suggest a care schedule during the winter months that includes regular security and systems checks. If you are away, make a point of having someone drop by and check the condition of shore power connections, mooring lines, fenders and boat canvas / covers. Also, check the condition of shore power lines (feel for warm plugs or hardened points near connectors). Run the engine(s) for an hour every month. Take the time to check fuses and any operating electrical equipment, open the bilges and cycle the bilge pumps to ensure operability.
Replacements
Each spring, boatyards and suppliers are swamped with yachts and owners looking to have equipment replaced. In most cases, the equipment didn't function as well as it should, or the owners saw new equipment that worked better during the last season or at a boat show. You can avoid the rush by replacing old and malfunctioning equipment with new and properly installed items during the winter months so it can be tested before shoving off for your next cruise.
Drain the raw water system, taking particular care to empty all low spots. Remove rubber pump impellers, lightly grease with petroleum jelly and replace. Leave the pump cover screws loose so that impellers won’t stick in the pump housings. Run the engine for a few seconds to drive any remaining water out of the exhaust. Wash salt crystals out of any vented loops.
Check the primary fuel filter and fuel tank for water and sediment.
Keep a diesel tank full to cut down on condensation. Run gasoline tanks down to a minimum amount of fuel and add fuel stabilizer. (Note: Modern fuels lose their octane ratings when stored, which can cause engine damage.)
Squirt some oil into the inlet manifold and turn the engine over a few times (without starting) to spread the oil over cylinder walls.
Inspect ignition wires and system components. Replace as necessary.
Use an engine flusher to remove salt, silt and sediment from engine’s lower unit.
Remove the inner wires of all engine control cables from their outer sheaths; clean, inspect, grease, and replace. Check the sheathing.
Seal all openings into the engine (e.g., air, inlet, exhaust) and the fuel tank vent. Put a conspicuous notice somewhere so you remember to unseal everything at the start of next season.
Inspect all hoses for signs of softening, cracking and/or bulging.
If hauling out: Check for propeller blade misalignment and cutless bearing wear; tighten any strut mounting bolts; inspect stainless steel prop shafts for crevice corrosion; remove prop nut and check under it.
Unless the batteries are being properly float charged (via a solar panel or battery charger with float regulation) remove from the boat and store in a cool, dry place.
Bring flooded batteries to a full charge once a month.
Check the lay-up list and complete what hadn’t been done.
Observe and obey all conspicuous reminder notes and envision places where they should be but maybe aren’t (plugged-off engine air inlets, exhausts, overtightened packing nut in the stuffing box, empty hot water tank etc.)
Check hoses and thru-hull connectors.
Undo the hose clamps a turn or two to check for corrosion of the band inside the screw housing.
Check refrigerant on refrigeration systems. Engine-driven compressors may have dried out and become leaky during a long period of being shut down.
Exercise the switches by turning them off and on a few times. This helps clean off the surface corrosion on terminals.
Open and close seacocks.
Spin blocks and windlasses.
Turn the steering wheel from side to side to check for stiff spots or binding.
Spin the drum and halyard swivels on roller reefing systems.
Tighten down all flexible impeller pump housings.
Prime centrifugal pumps.
Once in the water allow wooden hulls to settle for a few days, then check engine alignment.
