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If you have found changing your inboard engine oil to be a difficult, time consuming and messy process, you are not alone. In the case of many installations, only a sideshow contortionist would be able to reach the sump plug. Not to mention that, even if the plug is accessible, there’s often not enough room for a container to catch and hold the oil as it drains out. In spite of these difficulties, changing your oil at appropriate intervals is the most important thing you can do to maintain engine health and performance.
How Often Should You Change It?
Owner’s manuals vary in their recommendations but, regardless of what yours says, total run time cannot always be used as a reliable guide for when to change engine oil. Actually, the amount of time that your engine sits idle is equally as important. This is because dirty oil in idle engines combines with water to form caustic acids, which can damage inner-engine surfaces. In addition, other operating conditions unique to the marine environment may dictate more frequent oil changes. These conditions include short run times at less then optimum operating temperature, and high-RPM, low-load situations such as battery charging (which we do not recommend) that can increase sooty deposits in the crankcase leading to a variety of problems. At a minimum, we recommend that in addition to changing oil per the manufacturer's recommendation, that you change engine oil prior to winter lay-up and/or at the beginning of a period of non-operation.
Choosing a System
Choose an oil changing method that works well for your particular engine installation. Where space exists under the engine but hull geometry precludes placement of a standard catch pan, try the following: First, line the area under the sump with oil-absorbent cloths. Then take a small cardboard box and cut the sides down to a height that will allow placement under the engine sump. Double line the box with two plastic garbage bags, and slide it underneath, bending the box to shape as necessary. (Note: First check the capacity by filling the plastic-lined box with water.) Next, remove the sump plug and drain the oil. After the oil has drained out, carefully draw the bags shut and knot off. Dispose of the oil at the nearest recycling facility. For installations that preclude “workaround” methods such as this, the selection of an “off the shelf” system will be necessary.
These systems vary in capacity, convenience and cost. The most basic are manual hand pumps, which withdraw the oil via the dipstick tube and deposit it into a separate container. Somewhat more sophisticated are self-contained manual systems, which also include a container into which the oil is deposited. Due to the small diameter of the withdrawal tube, these systems require patience and, in addition, manual dexterity on the part of the user.
Moving up the ladder of convenience are 12 volt systems which replace muscle-power with an electric pump. For ultimate convenience, many owners with larger engines or multiple installations prefer the convenience of systems that plumb directly to the sump drain itself. These systems quickly drain the oil at the flick of a switch. Many employ a manifold design making them more convenient for multiple engine installations. In addition to removing dirty oil from an engine, they can also be used to refill the crankcase with fresh oil.
Don’t Forget to Change the Filter!
When you change your oil, always replace the filter. Before installing the new filter, lightly coat the gasket with oil and then hand tighten, giving it a three-quarter turn beyond the point where the seal makes contact with the flange. Your used engine oil can serve as an indicator of engine health. For example, a milky color indicates that water has entered the crankcase, and the presence of metal particles may indicate excessive wear. When in doubt, consider having your oil analyzed. Periodic oil analysis can give you a very good idea of engine health. For the location of a testing lab, consult an engine surveyor.
“Decoding” Engine Oil
Before purchasing new oil, remember that oil that is great for a gasoline inboard is not always right for a diesel. Your owner’s manual should state the API (American Petroleum Institute) and SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) ratings that denote the correct oil for your engine. These ratings should appear on the container of the oil you buy. API ratings that begin with the letter C are formulated for use in diesel engines. Ratings that begin with the letter S are formulated for gasoline engines. The letters C or S are followed by a second letter that indicates the complexity of the additive package.
These letters ascend up the alphabet. Oils containing more complex additive packages can, in general, be used with prior formulations.
For example, if you own a diesel and the manual says, “use CD”, oil rated CE will be fine. Many oils are now formulated for use with both gasoline and diesel engines.
For example, Chevron’s 30 and 40 weight DELO 400 is currently rated CF-2 and SJ. The SEA rating for the oil's viscosity should also appear on the container. Single viscosity oil is better for engines that operate within a narrow temperature range. Multi-viscosity oils are good for engines that operate within a comparatively wider temperature range.
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