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What is a Ground Tackle System
A windlass is the centerpiece of a boat’s ground tackle system. This system includes a boat's primary anchor, anchor roller, rode (which can be all-rope, rope-chain or all-chain), usually a chain locker, and deck hardware such as a chain stopper or cleat.
The Ideal
Ideally, windlasses should raise and lower anchor line without operator intervention except to push a button. Anchor rodes can be under great tension, and pose a risk to fingers, feet, hands, etc. We don't like the idea of transferring a line under tension from a capstan to a chain wildcat in the middle of weighing anchor, or clearing a jam from a balky system. Furthermore, we believe that windlasses should pass the line below decks to a locker, rather than pile the line on deck so that you have to stow it. For these reasons, we prefer a self-tailing/self-stowing windlass that does not require the operator to come into contact with the rode.
Anchor Lockers
A self-stowing windlass requires that your anchor locker be set up correctly. Specifically, the anchor rode must have a long "fall" so that it doesn't stack up under the incoming rode. A poor anchor locker design will render the installation of an otherwise ideal windlass useless. If your boat is not equipped with an anchor locker or you are unwilling to create one, then you will need to use a capstan-style windlass that deposits the rode on deck.
Vertical vs Horizontal Style
Horizontal style windlasses work better on installations with small anchor lockers and in installations with limited vertical fall. Horizontal windlass motors are protected within the windlass case. Horizontal windlasses offer more lead flexibility in the vertical plane for installations over toe rails or into lockers. However, alignment in the horizontal plane is critical, as horizontal windlasses cannot accept a rode lead from an off-center angle. Because vertical windlass motors are exposed within the anchor locker, they require a longer fall within the locker to avoid feeding problems. Vertical windlasses offer more flexibility in the horizontal plane for off-center installations.
Rodes and Gypsies
If you have a length of chain that you would like to use, make sure it is a type that the windlass gypsy will accept. If you will be using a combination of rope and chain, the rope will have to be joined to the chain with a proper splice, rather than a shackle, to avoid jamming in the gypsy.
Capacity
Assuming you have chosen the correct ground tackle for your boat, use this formula to calculate the "pulling capacity" of the windlass you need: (anchor weight + chain weight) x 3. In order to avoid overestimating the size of the windlass you need, this calculation should be based on the maximum depth in which the boat will anchor, not on the total length of the rode. Windlasses are not designed to hold boats at anchor. Nor are they designed to sustain the load encountered when a stubborn anchor fails to break free. In these situations, the rode should be secured to a bollard, cleat, or more conveniently to a chain stopper, which we suggest be part of your windlass system.
Anchor Rollers and Alignment
Your anchor roller/mount should be of a size and type correct for the anchor you will use. Powerboats commonly place anchor mounts/rollers on their centerline, since they have no head-stays. Sailboats, with stem fittings, head stays, furling drums, bow pulpits, etc. should place their anchor rollers 4"-8" to the right (or left) of the head-stay and parallel to the centerline of the boat. Wooden blocks may be required to raise the anchor roller above the toe rail and place it outboard so the anchor won't bang against the boat when weighed. Some windlasses may require shimming to a point where the rode runs parallel to the deck. Side-to-side alignment is also important for vertical windlasses, which may need to be offset in relation to the boat’s centerline to achieve a fair lead through the anchor mount.
Backing Plates
To distribute the loads encountered when weighing anchor or when attempting to break an anchor free, be sure to install backing plates under all the hardware in your ground tackle system.
Wiring
We suggest you use your boat's "house" battery to power your windlass installation. To limit voltage drop and ensure that the windlass operates at full capacity, cabling for the power circuit must be of the correct size for the amperage draw of the windlass. All wiring and cables should be marine-grade, and tinned to prevent corrosion. Because solder can melt, all connections should be crimped, and all connectors should be tinned as well. Overload protection in the form of a slow-blow fuse or circuit breaker must be installed. For specifics regarding the wiring of the windlass you plan to install, consult the owner's manual.
Anchors
"What is the best kind of anchor and rode for my boat?"
We get asked that question a lot, and the answer is often "more than one anchor, of different types." While you might think we are just trying to sell a few more anchors, the experts generally agree with this viewpoint. The type of bottom—mud, grass, sand, coral or rock—will dictate different choices of anchors, as will the size and windage of the boat, the wind conditions and the seastate. Some anchoring situations also call for more than one anchor.
You sometimes need to set two anchors in a crowded anchorage, with anchors at the bow and stern of the boat to limit its ability to swing. Two anchors set from the bow at a 60° angle are another good way to improve security against swinging and dragging, and they allow you to shorten the rodes and use less scope. In heavy weather conditions, where one anchor may not have enough holding power, setting a second anchor may be critical to staying put. Remember that as the wind speed doubles the force on the boat (and the ground tackle system) increases by four times.
Anchor Styles for Different Bottom Conditions
While the above cases show the need to sometimes set two anchors at once, having two anchors of different designs help insure good holding in different types of bottoms. One anchor of the Danforth style and one plow anchor are typically all you need. Except for coral and rocks, where the old–fashioned Yachtsman anchor may work best, either a plow or a Danforth should hold adequately in most conditions.
The most popular anchor style is the Lightweight or Danforth, which includes the West Marine Traditional and Performance anchors and is often the sole anchor on many smaller boats. Light and easy to weigh, it stows flat and holds very well in mud or sand. Its excellent holding power–to–weight ratio means you can use a lighter anchor compared to other types, but it doesn’t hold well in grassy or rocky surfaces. Its flukes and stock (the wide crossbar at the top) are more prone to foul on rocks or the anchor line.
Plow anchors, the "single point" style represented by the CQR, Delta, Spade and Claw, have the best all-around holding ability in varying bottom conditions. They generally reset themselves easily if the wind or current changes direction, and hold effectively in grass, mud and sand. They do not have projecting flukes that foul easily, but rely more on sheer weight for holding power. Their shape makes stowing them more awkward (a bow–roller or bowsprit is the best solution). Heavier powerboats and cruising sailboats often use plows as primary anchors.
How Big is Big Enough?
Sizing an anchor for your boat reinforces, with some limits, the "bigger is better" idea. If your engine fails and you are drifting toward a lee shore, having a properly sized anchor ready could save your boat. But raising the anchor by hand, with no electric powered windlass, calls for light and efficient ground tackle (and a strong back). Take the manufacturers’ suggested sizes into account and consider your boating style. Do you typically anchor for two hours or for two weeks, in a lake or in the Atlantic Ocean? The recommended anchor sizes from our
Master Catalog will work well for most boaters, under most conditions.
Besides the choice of anchors, consider the options for your anchor rode. Most experts advise a length of chain, to guard against chafe from sharp protrusions on the bottom and make the pull on the anchor more horizontal. All-chain rodes are popular on large powerboats and cruising sailboats, but chain is heavy and the bow is the worst place for extra weight. Our compromise recommendation is 60-100' of high-test chain (instead of Proof Coil or BBB) spliced to 250' of three-strand nylon line. This combination provides sufficient chain to ward off bottom abrasion, and you may not even need to pay out nylon in shallow
anchorages. It is reasonably light (as little as 65lb.) and tremendously strong. Do not oversize your rode, because the stretch of nylon provides a shock-absorbing cushion. A rode that is too stout will transmit jerks from waves directly to the anchor, pulling it out of the bottom. For a secondary rode many boaters stick to three-strand nylon. To switch anchors, tie the rode to the chain or anchor with a fisherman’s bend, which is more secure than a bowline under non–static loads.
Your ground tackle system is part of your boat’s basic safety gear. Good seamanship (and freedom from worry) requires you to be able to anchor securely in all conditions with varying bottom types. A backup anchor, of different design from your primary and kept ready to deploy on its own rode, is inexpensive safety insurance that just makes sense.
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