Clean Boating Practices | West Marine

By Kathryn Jelinek, Last updated: 5/20/2026

So you own a boat. Maybe you can save the world too!

"The Solution to Pollution is Dilution." Representative of an old mindset, this outdated adage underlines the false notion that the world's oceans possess the ability to shrug off seemingly endless pollution caused by human activity—and dilute contaminants before they become a problem. Decades of marine research have disproved this notion comprehensively. Copper accumulates in marina sediments. Microplastics persist in the food chain. Invasive species, once established, rarely disappear. The choices individual boaters make about cleaning products, bottom paint, waste management, and hull maintenance aggregate into real and measurable impacts on the ecosystems we depend on for the activity we love.

Boating is not traditionally an environmentally-friendly activity, but as people grow more conscientious and marinas enforce stricter rules, the market is responding with ways you can reduce your environmental impact. As a boater, you have the ability to significantly reduce your negative impact on marine ecosystems and protect our water so that we can all continue to enjoy boating, fishing, diving, paddling and more, for generations to come.

We've compiled a list of clean boating practices that you can easily employ without breaking the bank. From using environmentally-safe cleaners and low-VOC bottom paint, to proper chemical storage and educating yourself on invasive species, every choice can make a difference.

Written by Brian Gordon, West Marine

Cleaner Cleaning
Copper-Free and Low-VOC Antifouling Paints
Safer Sanding
Proper Storage of Paints, Cleaners and Chemicals
Marine Sanitation
Invasive Species

Cleaner Cleaning

One small way every boater can reduce their environmental footprint is to actively choose products that will have the least impact on the aquatic ecosystem. When selecting cleaning products, choose chemicals and formulas that will effectively clean your boat, but are not harmful when dissolved in water or released into the air. Look for products that are biodegradable, made without bleach, chlorine, or strong acids, and are non-toxic. If you have stubborn rust stains or need to deep clean your boat, use stronger chemicals sparingly. To reduce the need for harsh chemicals, clean areas subject to staining frequently before rust and other stains become a problem.

The distinction between "marine-safe" and "biodegradable" is worth understanding before you shop. A product labeled biodegradable will break down over time, but the rate of breakdown and the byproducts of that process vary enormously between formulations. Some biodegradable cleaners break down within days in the aquatic environment; others take weeks and release intermediate compounds that are toxic to marine organisms during the breakdown process. Products specifically formulated for marine use and certified by programs such as the EPA's Safer Choice standard have been evaluated against a comprehensive set of environmental and human health criteria that go well beyond simple biodegradability claims. When in doubt, choose a product with a recognized third-party environmental certification rather than relying on marketing language alone.

Practical habits that reduce cleaning chemical use and runoff:

Rinse the boat with fresh water after every saltwater outing. Salt left on surfaces accelerates corrosion and staining, creating the conditions that eventually require harsh cleaners to correct. A five-minute freshwater rinse at the dock prevents most of the staining problems that lead boaters to reach for aggressive chemicals.
Clean teak and non-skid surfaces regularly with mild soap before they become heavily soiled. Deeply embedded stains in teak and non-skid require significantly stronger chemicals to remove than surface grime. Frequent light cleaning with eco-friendly soap eliminates most situations where a stronger product would otherwise be needed.
Wash the boat away from the water when possible. Cleaning on the hard at a boatyard or in a driveway, rather than while the boat is in the water, keeps wash water and cleaning chemicals out of the marina directly. Most boatyards have wash pads with water recapture systems that collect runoff for proper disposal.
Never use bleach-based products to clean teak or non-skid near the water. Bleach is highly toxic to marine organisms even in small concentrations and does not break down quickly in the aquatic environment. Oxygen-based cleaners achieve comparable brightening and stain removal results without the environmental impact.

Copper-Free and Low-VOC Antifouling Paints

Until recently, most bottom paints relied upon cuprous oxide to prevent marine growth. While cuprous oxide is highly effective against fouling organisms, it can concentrate to levels that are harmful to the marine environment. For this reason, boaters in increasing numbers are switching to copper-free bottom paints that contain alternate biocides such as ECONEA®. ECONEA is effective against barnacles and other hard marine growth, but unlike cuprous oxide, it dissipates quickly in the aquatic environment. For your boat's prop and prop shaft, copper-free formulations such as Propspeed are a great choice. Because PropSpeed does not contain any biocide it is actually not an antifouling paint. Instead it is a "foul-release" formulation that creates a super-slick surface to which marine organisms cannot adhere. For more about ECONEA, Propspeed and copper-free antifouling paints, read the West Advisor articles How to Bottom Paint Your Boat and Top Ten Antifouling Paint Buying Questions.

The environmental case against high-copper bottom paint has strengthened significantly over the past two decades. Studies of sediment in high-traffic marina basins have found copper concentrations many times higher than levels considered safe for sensitive marine organisms. Copper does not break down or disperse the way organic biocides do — it accumulates in sediment and in the tissue of bottom-dwelling organisms, moving up the food chain from invertebrates to fish to the birds and marine mammals that eat them. Several states including California have already moved to restrict or ban high-copper antifouling paints in certain waters, and more are expected to follow. Transitioning to a copper-free or low-copper formulation now is both environmentally responsible and forward-looking from a practical standpoint.

Breathing clean air is also important. That's why it is a good idea to choose a bottom paint that is low in VOCs or volatile organic compounds. Bottom paints that contain VOCs release these compounds into the air during application—which is bad news for the person who applies them because breathing VOCs can cause eye, nose, and throat irritation, plus headaches, dizziness and nausea. For these reasons, selecting a water-based bottom paint or a solvent-based paint that is low in VOCs is a wise choice.

Many boaters who keep their boats in high-fouling waters are partial to bottom paints that are heavily loaded with copper, but an increasing number of boaters are turning toward copper-free paints. Whatever antifouling paint you choose, when sanding your boat's hull or applying bottom paint, ensure your personal safety by donning protective gear such as nitrile or rubber gloves, Tyvek® coveralls, a head sock, shoe covers and an organic vapor mask or respirator.

For boaters considering the switch to copper-free bottom paint, here is what to expect in practice:

Performance in high-fouling tropical and subtropical waters has improved significantly. Early copper-free formulations struggled to match the biocidal effectiveness of high-copper paints in warm, high-fouling waters. Current ECONEA-based and zinc pyrithione-based copper-free paints have closed this gap considerably and perform acceptably in most temperate and subtropical conditions. In very high-fouling tropical waters, a copper-hybrid paint with reduced copper content may be a reasonable intermediate step before transitioning fully to copper-free.
Foul-release systems like Propspeed require an antifouling undercoat on the hull. Propspeed is applied to running gear — props, shafts, trim tabs, and rudders — not to the full hull. It works by making the surface too slick for organisms to grip, rather than poisoning them, and its effectiveness depends on the boat being used regularly enough for speed to physically clean the surface. Boats that sit for extended periods in high-fouling water may see growth begin on a foul-release surface, though it typically comes off easily when the boat is next underway.
Haul-out frequency matters. Any antifouling system, copper or copper-free, performs better with regular bottom inspections and light cleaning between haul-outs. A soft growth of slime and early-stage fouling organisms that could be wiped off with a dive brush after 60 days becomes a full barnacle encrustation that requires mechanical removal after 180 days, regardless of paint type.

Safer Sanding

At the time of this writing, not all marinas in the U.S. require a dust collection system—essentially, a vacuum built into a sander—to remove dust during sanding before bottom painting—but it is always a good practice. The dust that comes off the bottom of your boat during sanding can be bad for the environment. For your safety, and to properly apply and remove bottom paint, you should always refer to the product's use guidelines. To protect yourself while you sand, use appropriate safety gear, ventilation and a dust collection system that will remove the majority of the sanded paint particulates. This also allows the bottom paint dust to be disposed of in a safe manner. Electric sanders with a dust collection system can be purchased or are often available for rent at boatyards near marinas that enforce their use.

Bottom paint dust is a concentrated source of the same biocides and heavy metals that make antifouling paint effective in the water. Copper-containing bottom paint dust that settles on the ground around the boat or blows into the marina water during dry sanding introduces the same copper accumulation problem that the paint itself causes when applied to a hull — only in a more concentrated and immediately bioavailable form. Even copper-free bottom paint dust contains biocide compounds that should be captured and disposed of rather than allowed to disperse.

Best practices for a safer sanding job:

Always use a random-orbital sander with a dust bag or vacuum attachment. A sander without dust collection distributes fine paint particulates into the air you breathe and onto the ground beneath the boat. Captured dust can be bagged and disposed of as hazardous waste at a marina or municipal collection facility. Most boatyards that rent or loan sanders include dust collection as a standard feature of their equipment.
Wet sand when dry sanding is not feasible. Wet sanding with water keeps paint dust from becoming airborne, though it generates paint-laden wastewater that must be collected rather than allowed to run into the marina. Some boatyards provide vacuum-equipped wet sanding systems; if yours does not, dry sanding with dust collection is preferable to wet sanding with uncontrolled runoff.
Work in calm conditions. Even with dust collection, some fine particulate will escape. Sanding on a calm day with minimal wind keeps airborne dust from traveling outside your immediate work area and into the water. Early morning, before the afternoon sea breeze develops, is typically the best time in most coastal locations.
Dispose of sanding residue as hazardous waste. Used sandpaper, dust bag contents, and drop cloths used to catch sanding debris from bottom paint work should be treated as hazardous waste, not regular trash. Most marinas and boatyards have designated collection points for hazardous marine waste. If yours does not, contact your local municipality for household hazardous waste disposal options.

Proper Storage of Paints, Cleaners and Chemicals

How do you store paint between seasons? Cleaners? Anything that could evaporate into the air or spill out into the water should be contained in a safe, dry storage space where bottles are unlikely to be overturned and lids are securely attached. We recommend dock boxes for safe and reliable storage of any cleaner or chemical you need near your boat. These include cleaners, paint and bottom paint, varnish, head chemicals—anything you'd rather not have leaking or see dumped into the water. Dock boxes come in multiple sizes and are meant to be installed on the dock at the corner of your assigned slip. When storing spray cleaners, be sure that the top is on tight and the nozzle is in the closed position. Make sure that the lids of paint and varnish cans are closed tightly so that they won't leak, even if tipped over. Resins, solvents, antifreeze and other chemicals with a twist-off lid should be checked for leakage before storage. Anything toxic should be tightly closed up or properly disposed of in accordance with guidelines of your local marina or municipality.

A few additional storage practices that protect both the environment and your own safety:

Never store incompatible chemicals together. Solvents and oxidizers stored together create a fire and explosion risk. Acids and bases stored together can react if containers fail. Keep bottom paint and thinners in a separate section of your dock box from cleaners and head chemicals, and never mix containers from different product categories.
Do not store chemicals aboard the boat when not in use. A chemical spill belowdecks from a container that tips or seals that fail is far more difficult to contain than a spill in a dock box. Store only what you need for that day's use aboard, and return everything else to shore storage. This also reduces fire risk, since many boat cleaning and maintenance chemicals are flammable.
Dispose of old or partially used chemicals through proper channels. Pouring leftover bottom paint, solvent, or cleaning chemical into the trash or down a drain is illegal in most jurisdictions and environmentally harmful. Most marinas participate in hazardous waste collection programs, and most municipalities offer periodic household hazardous waste collection events that accept marine chemicals. The Clean Boating Foundation and Sea Grant programs in many states maintain directories of marine hazardous waste disposal locations by region.
Label everything clearly, including the date opened. Chemicals that have been stored beyond their useful life may have degraded in ways that make them less effective or more hazardous to handle. A bottom paint that has been opened and stored for three seasons may have partially separated and contain elevated concentrations of settled biocide that make it unpredictable to apply. When in doubt about the condition of a stored chemical, dispose of it properly rather than using it.

Marine Sanitation

Being able to "meet the call of nature" onboard is a great convenience, since the alternative would be a time-consuming trip back to the dock. For this reason, most boats with an enclosed cabin space have some kind of toilet. This can be in a self-contained device, such as a portable toilet, or a toilet that is plumbed to a marine sanitation device (MSD). There are three types of MSDs: Type I, Type II and Type III. For a definition of each type of MSD and for an overview of the laws that govern the use of your marine toilet, including the discharge of human waste, check what the United States EPA website has to say under Vessel Sewage Frequently Asked Questions. We suggest that new boat owners thoroughly familiarize themselves with the maintenance and operation of their boat's sanitary facilities. We also suggest that you become familiar with national, state and local laws that govern the use MSDs in your local area. For more information, you can email the EPA administrator in your local area. For the email address of the administrator in your local area, follow the link to the EPA website provided above.

Beyond legal compliance, the environmental case for proper marine sanitation is straightforward. Raw sewage discharged into enclosed anchorages, tidal creeks, and near-shore waters contributes pathogens, excess nitrogen, and phosphorus that degrade water quality, close shellfish beds, and trigger algal blooms that deplete oxygen and kill marine life. Many of the shellfish bed closures and beach closures that affect recreational boaters directly are attributable in part to sewage discharge from vessels. Pump-out stations are available at an increasing number of marinas along the US coastline, and using them is both legally required in No-Discharge Zones and simply the right thing to do for the waters we use.

Practical sanitation habits that make a real difference:

Know the No-Discharge Zones in your cruising area. Federal law prohibits discharge of any treated or untreated sewage in designated No-Discharge Zones. Many coastal states have established NDZs covering popular anchorages, estuaries, and near-shore waters. NOAA's nautical charts and the EPA's vessel sewage website maintain lists of designated NDZs by state. Ignorance of NDZ boundaries is not a legal defense.
Use pump-out stations before they become necessary. A holding tank that is pumped out regularly at a marina pump-out station is a system that works reliably. A holding tank that is allowed to reach capacity and then pumped out in a hurry is one that is more likely to have a valve operated incorrectly under pressure. Most marinas with pump-out stations offer the service free or at minimal cost, subsidized by Clean Vessel Act funding.
Choose environmentally appropriate head chemicals. Formaldehyde-based holding tank deodorants, once common, are highly toxic to marine organisms and should never be used. Biodegradable, enzyme-based holding tank treatments break down waste effectively without introducing harmful compounds into the system or the environment when the tank is pumped out.

What You Need to Know About Invasive Species

Invasive species have been a hot topic among marine scientists for a long time. When organisms are introduced into a new location where their normal predators are missing, they can overpopulate and snuff out one or more species in the fight for resources. This may cause a chain reaction within the ecosystem that leads to other plant and animal species completely dying out—and if those species include your favorite catch, you're out of luck. Invasive species can spread from one body of water to another when they hitch a ride on your boat. Preventing their spread can be difficult because they are hard to spot. Luckily, there are some simple actions you can take to help.

The economic and ecological costs of aquatic invasive species in the United States are substantial. Zebra mussels, first detected in the Great Lakes in 1988, have spread to more than 30 states, clogging water intake pipes, encrusting boat hulls and docks, and dramatically altering the food web in affected water bodies. Asian carp threaten to displace native species across large portions of the Mississippi River basin. Lionfish, established in Atlantic and Gulf Coast waters after escaping from or being released by aquarium owners, have no natural predators in those waters and consume juvenile fish of economically important species at alarming rates. Boaters are one of the primary vectors for spreading these and other invasive species between water bodies, and one of the most effective points of intervention in slowing their spread.

The most important thing to remember about invasive marine species is that they generally need water to survive. Letting your boat and its trailer dry completely before you travel and launch your boat into a different body of water can help. Water on your boat that can harbor invasive species includes water in your boat's bilge, livewell, baitwell and ballast tanks. Scrape any organisms off the hull before launching your boat. Keeping your boat free of invasive species will help ensure that your favorite fishing spots keep producing fish, that beaches remain open and that lakes and other bodies of water aren't closed off to boaters for habitat protection. Don't forget that in many places, you could be slapped with a hefty fine if law enforcement finds invasive species on your boat.

The Clean, Drain, Dry protocol recommended by state fish and wildlife agencies across the country gives boaters a clear, actionable framework for reducing invasive species transport:

Clean all visible aquatic plants, animals, and mud from your boat, trailer, and equipment before leaving any water body. Pay particular attention to the bilge, livewell, baitwell, anchor, anchor rode, motor lower unit, and any other equipment that came into contact with the water. Remove and dispose of any vegetation or organisms onsite in a trash receptacle — never transport them to a new location.
Drain all water from the boat, motor, bilge, livewells, baitwells, and any water-carrying equipment before leaving the launch area. In many states it is illegal to transport a boat with water in the bilge or livewells, specifically to prevent the spread of invasive species. Open all drain plugs and leave them out during transport.
Dry your boat, trailer, and all equipment completely before launching in a new body of water. Many aquatic invasive species can survive for days in small amounts of residual water or moisture, particularly in bilges, livewells, and equipment crevices. At least five days of drying time is recommended before launching in a new water body; more in cool conditions, since drying time increases with humidity and lower temperatures.
Never release bait into a water body where it was not collected. Unused live bait — minnows, crayfish, worms, or other organisms — collected from or purchased in one region should never be released into a different water body. Many invasive species have been introduced by well-meaning anglers disposing of leftover bait at the end of a fishing trip.